FLIPPING E&E BUBBLE POCKETS SHORTS INTO BUBBLE POCKETS ROMPER

For FLIP THIS PATTERN series at FRANCESSUZANNE blog I’ve decided to flip Heidi’s wonderful BUBBLE POCKETS SHORTS into BUBBLE POCKETS ROMPERS. But, these shorts are so versatile that I ended up making not one but two versions: one more chic for a “citywear” look and a more relaxed one for a “beachwear” look.
And now is time to  vote!
It's easy! Just head over Frances Suzanne blog and chose your favorite flip.
I hope you pick my rompers...

Meanwhile Emily challenged me to organize a tutorial for this flip. I set to work and, besides the tutorial, I ended up drawing the bodice pattern for you to download. As I have plenty of practice drawing with Autocad (drawing software I’ve been using every day in my architectural work for the past 20 years…) designing the pattern turned out to be easier and faster than I thought...

PRINT THE PATTERN
Download the pattern (here are: page 01, page 02, page 03 and page 04) and print it in an A4 printer. Confirm that everything is printed correctly with the help of the graphic scale included in all the pages. Cut and attach the two sheets of each pattern aligning the horizontal lines at their boundaries.

SEW SHORTS
Cut and sew the shorts according to the instructions on Heidi’s pattern but skipping the steps for the waistband (pages 10-15).
If you want to finish the pockets with bias tape (instead of a regular hem) you should deduct 0,5cm + 1,5cm (1/4’’+1/2’’) to its pieces so they can have the correct high when finished.

 

SEW BODICE (BEACHWEAR VERSION)
Cut two pieces of fabric that make up the romper’s bodice (front and back) using the patterns that you have just printed.
Finish both bodice pieces side raw edges with a serger or by zigzagging with a sewing machine.

 

With right sides together, align the side raw edges of the bodice front and back pieces, then pin together. Sew each side with a 1cm (3/8’’) seam allowance. Press each seam open.

The front neckline has to be gathered to have a final length of 22cm (8 2/3'') for size 7/8 years (19 cm (7 1/2'') for size 6/5 years, 17cm (6 2/3 ") for size 3/4 years, 16cm (6 1/3'') for size 12/24 months and 15cm (6'') for size 6/12 months) before being finished off with bias tape. For this refer to the same technique you used to gather the bottom part of the shorts’ pockets (see page 31 on Heidi’s tutorial).
 

To finish off the rompers’ front neckline that you have just gathered, cut a bit of bias tape with the same length as the already gathered neckline. Start by opening the bias tape lengthwise and place it on top of the fabric, right sides together, aligning its raw edges. Pin and sew along the bias tape fold line. Fold the bias tape to the wrong side of the garment and, with the help of your iron, pin into place all the way around the neck line, making sure that the bias tape edge is aligned with the line of stitches that you have sewed before. Once again, sew all the way around the neckline (some people sew it from the wrong side but I think it is better to sew it from the right side as this will be the one you will want to be as perfect as possible) right near the bias tape edge.
 

Cut a strip of bias tape 2,40m (94 1/2'') long for size 7/8 years (2,10m (82 1/2'') for size 6/5 years, 1,85m (73'') for size 3/4 years, 1,60m (62'') for size 12/24 months and 1,40m (55'') for size 6/12 months) and mark its halfway point with a pin. The sewing technique to attach this bias tape is the same used on the neckline so start by opening the bias tape lengthwise and place it on top of the fabric, right sides together, aligning its raw edges. This time you will also have to align the halfway point of the bias tape that you have just pinned with the middle of the bodice’s back panel. Pin and sew along the bias tape fold line. Fold the bias tape to the wrong side of the garment and, with the help of your iron, pin into place all the way around the back line and armholes, making sure that the bias tape edge is aligned with the line of stitches that you have sewed before. Continue folding along the shoulder straps.

This length of bias tape will make very long shoulder straps. If you are using very expensive bias tape or you are short on it, you may reduce it a bit and it will still look great.

Though you have pinned the bias tape all the way throw the back panel, the armholes and the shoulder straps, start by sewing only the back panel section, from the right side and very close to the edge of the bias tape. Cut a bit of elastic like the one you’ve used for the shorts’ pockets with 32cm (12 3/5’’) for size 7/8 years (25cm (9 5/6’’) for size 5/6 years, 20cm (7 7/8’’) for size 3/4 years, 18cm (7’’) for size 12/24 months and 17cm (6 2/3’’) for size 6/12 months) and, with the help of a small safety pin, insert it into the bias tape casing. Pull the elastic through the casing, leaving 1,2cm (1/2’’) extending out on each side. Secure the elastic in place with small stitches aligned with the side seam.

To finish the shoulder straps limit, fold and press the bias tape short ends toward the wrong side and the re-fold the strap in half and pin it so it stays in place.

Now just sew the bias tape all the way throw the armholes and shoulders straps until you reach the end of both straps.

SEW SHORTS AND BODICE TOGHETHER

 

To sew shorts and bodice together, put the shorts inside the bodice, right sides together, aligning its raw edges and side seams. Pin and sew along the waistline with a 1,5cm (3/5’’) seam allowance. Finish both raw edges together with a serger or by zigzagging with your sewing machine.

 

Turn the waistline seams towards the bodice and press.
With rompers inside out, create its waistband by topstitching along the waistline 0.08cm (1/3’’) away from the line joining the bodice to the shorts. Leave a small opening in the back to insert the elastic. Cut a bit of elastic (again, you can use the same kind of elastic you have used for the shorts pockets) with 55cm (21 2/3’’) for size 7/8 years (50cm (19 2/3’’)for size 6/5 years, 46cm (18 1/9’’) for size 3/4 years, 44cm (17 1/3’’) for the size 12/24 months and 42cm (16 1/2’’)for size 6/12 months) and, with the help of a safety pin, pull the elastic throw the casing. Stitch its ends together and close the opening.
If you are sewing these rompers with a contrasting line, as I did on the beachwear version, you may want to sew a second boundary line for the waistband. You will have to make it before encasing the elastic. Just topstitch all the way thru the waistband right next to the seam line (where the body is attached to the shorts). This way the elastic waistband will be delimited by two lines of stitching.

 

The rompers are ready to go!

I’ve used sizes 3/4 and 5/6 year’s patterns to make rompers for Teresa and Ines. All other sizes still need to be tested as this project was "secret" until today so I could not contact "pattern testers"...
If you try them out, please give me your feedback so I can correct any mistakes (thank you!)
And don't forget to vote!