SNACK BAGS . SACOS DE LANCHE

Em Setembro a Teresa entrou para a primária.

Claro que tinha feito planos para lhe fazer a mochila e o estojo mas, por falta de tempo e de organização, esses projectos acabaram por não sair da gaveta…
Mas consegui fazer estes sacos de lanche! Um para o lanche da manhã, outro para o lanche da tarde, devidamente “etiquetados” na letra manuscrita que ela está agora a aprender.

In mid September Teresa started elementary school.
Of course I had made plans to make her a backpack and a pencil case, but for lack of time and organization, these projects did not see the day light...
But I managed to make her these snack bags! One for the morning snack (“lanche da manhã”, in portuguese), one for an afternoon snack (“lanche da tarde” in portuguese), properly "tagged" in the kind of handwriting she is now learning at school.

Usei um resto de tecido de algodão de xadrez “Vichy” em duas cores diferentes (para ela os poder distinguir melhor enquanto ainda não sabe ler) e bordei as letras com a ajuda do meu arco de bordar.

I picked two bits of “vichy” cotton fabric from my stash in two different colors (this way she can distinguish the bags while she still learning to read properly) and embroidered the letters with the help of my embroidery loop.

Os sacos em si são básicos e facílimos de fazer. Basta seguir as instruções do meu tutorial para fazer sacos de para-vento ou guarda-sol, tendo o cuidado de adaptar as medidas (os sacos de lanche que fiz para a Teresa têm cerca de 20cmx30cm).

The bags are pretty basic and super easy and fast to sew. If you fell like making them, just follow the instructions on my tutorial formaking windscreen or umbrella bags, making sure you adapt its dimensions (the snack bags I made for Teresa are about 20cmx30cm).

 

 

E cá está a Teresa a fazer os seus primeiros TPC!

And here is Teresa doing their first homework!

FLIPPING E&E BUBBLE POCKETS SHORTS INTO BUBBLE POCKETS ROMPER

For FLIP THIS PATTERN series at FRANCESSUZANNE blog I’ve decided to flip Heidi’s wonderful BUBBLE POCKETS SHORTS into BUBBLE POCKETS ROMPERS. But, these shorts are so versatile that I ended up making not one but two versions: one more chic for a “citywear” look and a more relaxed one for a “beachwear” look.
And now is time to  vote!
It's easy! Just head over Frances Suzanne blog and chose your favorite flip.
I hope you pick my rompers...

Meanwhile Emily challenged me to organize a tutorial for this flip. I set to work and, besides the tutorial, I ended up drawing the bodice pattern for you to download. As I have plenty of practice drawing with Autocad (drawing software I’ve been using every day in my architectural work for the past 20 years…) designing the pattern turned out to be easier and faster than I thought...

PRINT THE PATTERN
Download the pattern (here are: page 01, page 02, page 03 and page 04) and print it in an A4 printer. Confirm that everything is printed correctly with the help of the graphic scale included in all the pages. Cut and attach the two sheets of each pattern aligning the horizontal lines at their boundaries.

SEW SHORTS
Cut and sew the shorts according to the instructions on Heidi’s pattern but skipping the steps for the waistband (pages 10-15).
If you want to finish the pockets with bias tape (instead of a regular hem) you should deduct 0,5cm + 1,5cm (1/4’’+1/2’’) to its pieces so they can have the correct high when finished.

 

SEW BODICE (BEACHWEAR VERSION)
Cut two pieces of fabric that make up the romper’s bodice (front and back) using the patterns that you have just printed.
Finish both bodice pieces side raw edges with a serger or by zigzagging with a sewing machine.

 

With right sides together, align the side raw edges of the bodice front and back pieces, then pin together. Sew each side with a 1cm (3/8’’) seam allowance. Press each seam open.

The front neckline has to be gathered to have a final length of 22cm (8 2/3'') for size 7/8 years (19 cm (7 1/2'') for size 6/5 years, 17cm (6 2/3 ") for size 3/4 years, 16cm (6 1/3'') for size 12/24 months and 15cm (6'') for size 6/12 months) before being finished off with bias tape. For this refer to the same technique you used to gather the bottom part of the shorts’ pockets (see page 31 on Heidi’s tutorial).
 

To finish off the rompers’ front neckline that you have just gathered, cut a bit of bias tape with the same length as the already gathered neckline. Start by opening the bias tape lengthwise and place it on top of the fabric, right sides together, aligning its raw edges. Pin and sew along the bias tape fold line. Fold the bias tape to the wrong side of the garment and, with the help of your iron, pin into place all the way around the neck line, making sure that the bias tape edge is aligned with the line of stitches that you have sewed before. Once again, sew all the way around the neckline (some people sew it from the wrong side but I think it is better to sew it from the right side as this will be the one you will want to be as perfect as possible) right near the bias tape edge.
 

Cut a strip of bias tape 2,40m (94 1/2'') long for size 7/8 years (2,10m (82 1/2'') for size 6/5 years, 1,85m (73'') for size 3/4 years, 1,60m (62'') for size 12/24 months and 1,40m (55'') for size 6/12 months) and mark its halfway point with a pin. The sewing technique to attach this bias tape is the same used on the neckline so start by opening the bias tape lengthwise and place it on top of the fabric, right sides together, aligning its raw edges. This time you will also have to align the halfway point of the bias tape that you have just pinned with the middle of the bodice’s back panel. Pin and sew along the bias tape fold line. Fold the bias tape to the wrong side of the garment and, with the help of your iron, pin into place all the way around the back line and armholes, making sure that the bias tape edge is aligned with the line of stitches that you have sewed before. Continue folding along the shoulder straps.

This length of bias tape will make very long shoulder straps. If you are using very expensive bias tape or you are short on it, you may reduce it a bit and it will still look great.

Though you have pinned the bias tape all the way throw the back panel, the armholes and the shoulder straps, start by sewing only the back panel section, from the right side and very close to the edge of the bias tape. Cut a bit of elastic like the one you’ve used for the shorts’ pockets with 32cm (12 3/5’’) for size 7/8 years (25cm (9 5/6’’) for size 5/6 years, 20cm (7 7/8’’) for size 3/4 years, 18cm (7’’) for size 12/24 months and 17cm (6 2/3’’) for size 6/12 months) and, with the help of a small safety pin, insert it into the bias tape casing. Pull the elastic through the casing, leaving 1,2cm (1/2’’) extending out on each side. Secure the elastic in place with small stitches aligned with the side seam.

To finish the shoulder straps limit, fold and press the bias tape short ends toward the wrong side and the re-fold the strap in half and pin it so it stays in place.

Now just sew the bias tape all the way throw the armholes and shoulders straps until you reach the end of both straps.

SEW SHORTS AND BODICE TOGHETHER

 

To sew shorts and bodice together, put the shorts inside the bodice, right sides together, aligning its raw edges and side seams. Pin and sew along the waistline with a 1,5cm (3/5’’) seam allowance. Finish both raw edges together with a serger or by zigzagging with your sewing machine.

 

Turn the waistline seams towards the bodice and press.
With rompers inside out, create its waistband by topstitching along the waistline 0.08cm (1/3’’) away from the line joining the bodice to the shorts. Leave a small opening in the back to insert the elastic. Cut a bit of elastic (again, you can use the same kind of elastic you have used for the shorts pockets) with 55cm (21 2/3’’) for size 7/8 years (50cm (19 2/3’’)for size 6/5 years, 46cm (18 1/9’’) for size 3/4 years, 44cm (17 1/3’’) for the size 12/24 months and 42cm (16 1/2’’)for size 6/12 months) and, with the help of a safety pin, pull the elastic throw the casing. Stitch its ends together and close the opening.
If you are sewing these rompers with a contrasting line, as I did on the beachwear version, you may want to sew a second boundary line for the waistband. You will have to make it before encasing the elastic. Just topstitch all the way thru the waistband right next to the seam line (where the body is attached to the shorts). This way the elastic waistband will be delimited by two lines of stitching.

 

The rompers are ready to go!

I’ve used sizes 3/4 and 5/6 year’s patterns to make rompers for Teresa and Ines. All other sizes still need to be tested as this project was "secret" until today so I could not contact "pattern testers"...
If you try them out, please give me your feedback so I can correct any mistakes (thank you!)
And don't forget to vote!

 

BUBBLE POCKETS ROMPERS, A TRANSFORMAÇÃO

Para a série FLIP THIS PATTERN do blog FRANCES SUZANNE resolvi transformar os fantásticos BUBBLE POCKETS SHORTS em BUBBLE POCKETS ROMPERS. E estes calções são tão versáteis que acabei por fazer não uma mas duas versões: uma mais chique para um look citywear e outra mais descontraída para um look beachwear.
Hoje é dia de votação!
Para votar basta dar um salto aqui e escolher a transformação que mais gostam.
Espero que seja a minha...

Entretanto a Emily desafio-me a organizar um tutorial para esta transformação. Pus mãos à obra e, além do tutorial, desenhei o molde do corpo do macaco. Como tenho muita prática de Autocad (o programa de desenho que uso todos os dias nos meus trabalhos de arquitetura) desenhar os moldes acabou por ser mais fácil e rápido que do pensava…

IMPRIMIR O MOLDE

Faça o download do molde (são quarto folhas: folha 01, folha 02, folha 03 e folha 04) e imprima numa impressora A4. Confirme que os desenhos estão bem impressos com a ajuda da escala gráfica incluída em todas as suas páginas. Corte e una as duas folhas de cada um dos moldes alinhando as suas linhas limites.

COSTURAR OS CALÇÕES

Corte e costure os calções segundo o molde e as instruções da Heidi saltando os passos relativos ao cós (páginas 10 a 15).

Se quiser rematar os bolsos com fita de viés (em vez de uma bainha normal) deverá cortar as suas peças com menos 0,5cm+1,5cm de altura.

 

COSTURAR O CORPO (VERSÃO BEACHWEAR)

Corte as duas peças de tecido que constituem o corpo do macaco (frente e costas) usando os moldes que imprimiu.
Remate com ponto ziguezague as costuras laterais de ambas as peças que constituem o corpo do macaco.

Colocando o lado direito contra o lado direito das peças da frente a das costas, prenda com alfinetes e cosa ao longo das costuras laterais (costura com 1cm). Abra as costuras com o ferro de engomar.

O decote da frente deverá ser franzido para ter um comprimento final de 22cm para o tamanho 7/8 anos (19cm para o tamanho 5/6 anos, 17cm para o tamanho 3/4 anos, 16 para o tamanho 12/24 meses e 15cm para o tamanho 6/12 meses) antes de ser rematado com fita de viés. Para isso recorra à mesma técnica que usou para franzir a parte de inferior dos bolsos dos calções (página 31).

 Para rematar a linha do decote da parte da frente do macaco corte um pouco de fita de viés com o mesmo comprimento do referido decote. Comece por a abrir a fita no sentido do comprimento e coloque-a sobre o tecido, frente contra frente, fazendo coincidir os seus limites. Prenda com alfinetes e cosa seguindo a linha do vinco da fita de viés. Vire a fita para o avesso do tecido e, com a ajuda do ferro, vinque para que o seu limite coincida com a linha de pontos que costurou antes. Prenda com alfinetes e cosa, pelo lado direito, bem perto do limite da fita de vies.

Corte uma tira de fita de viés com 2,40m de comprimento para o tamanho 7/8 anos (2,10m para o tamanho 5/6 anos, 1,85m para o tamanho 3/4 anos, 1,60m para o tamanho 12/24 meses e 1,40m para o tamanho 6/12 meses) e marque o seu centro com um alfinete. Tal com fez no remate do decote da parte da frente, abra a fita de viés no sentido do comprimento e coloque-a sobre o tecido da peça das costas, frente contra frente, fazendo coincidir os seus limites e o centro marcado na fita de viés com o centro da peça das costas do macaco. Prenda com alfinetes e cosa seguindo a linha do vinco da fita de viés. Vire a fita para o avesso do tecido e, com a ajuda do ferro, vinque para que o seu limite coincida com a linha de pontos que costurou antes. Continue a vincar ao longo das alças.

Este tamanho de fita de viés dá umas alças bem compridas. Se estiver a usar uma fita de viés muito cara ou se tiver pouca quantidade pode reduzir um pouco o seu tamanho.

Prenda tudo com alfinetes mas comece por coser, pelo lado direito e bem perto do limite da fita de viés, apenas a zona da fita que remata as costas. Corte um pouco de elástico igual ao que usou para os bolsos calções com 32cm de comprimento para o tamanho 7/8 anos (25cm para o tamanho 5/6 anos, 20cm para o tamanho 3/4 anos, 18cm para o tamanho 12/24 meses e 17cm para o tamanho 6/12 meses) e, com a ajuda de um alfinete de dama, passe-o por dentro da fita de viés, deixando 1,2cm de fora de casa lado. Remate ambos os extremos do elástico com pequenos pontos para que não saia do lugar.

Para rematar as pontas das alças abra a fita e dobre-a sobre si mesma no sentido da largura, depois volte a fecha-la. Termine de coser a fita de viés ao longo das cavas até chegar ao extremo de ambas as alças.

UNIR OS CALÇÕES AO CORPO DO MACACO

Para unir os calções ao corpo do macaco, coloque os calções dentro do corpo do macaco, frente contra frente, alinhe as suas costuras laterais e os seus limites, prenda com alfinetes e cosa ao longo de toda a linha da cintura a 1,5cm do limite. Remate com ponto ziguezague as costuras da cintura.

Vire as costuras da cintura no sentido do corpo e engome.

Com os calções do avesso, forme o cós do macaco cosendo uma nova linha ao longo da cintura 0,08cm afastada da linha que une as suas duas peças. Deixe uma pequena abertura nas costas para poder colocar o elástico. Corte um pouco de elástico igual ao dos bolsos dos calções de largura com 55cm de comprimento para o tamanho 7/8 anos (50 para o tamanho 5/6 anos, 46 para o tamanho 3/4 anos, 44 para o tamanho 12/24 meses e 42 para o tamanho 6/12 meses) e, com a ajuda de um alfinete de dama, passe-o por dentro do cós. Cosa as pontas do elástico e feche a abertura.

Se estiver a coser o macaco com uma linha contrastante poderá, antes de enfiar o elástico, fazer uma segunda linha de limite do cós pespontando mesmo junto à linha de junção do corpo do macaco com os calções. Assim terá o elástico da cintura delimitado por duas linhas de costura.

O macaco está pronto!

Os moldes para os tamanhos 3/4 anos e 5/6 anos já foram experimentados em macacos para as minhas filhas. Os restantes ainda estão por experimentar (este projeto era “secreto” até hoje por isso não pude contactar “pattern testers”…) Se os experimentarem, peço-vos que me digam como correu e se há alguma coisa que possa ser melhorada (e, já agora, obrigada antecipadamente!)

E não se esqueçam de votar!

3D PLEATED SUMMER DRESS TUTORIAL AT PR&P

Hoje estou a partilhar o meu tutorial para fazer o Vestido das Pregas 3D no Project Run and Play!

Passem por lá e vejam todos os incriveis tutoriais das Sewing Friends do PR&P!

 

Today I'm sharing my 3D Pleated Summer Dress Tutorial at Project Run and Play!

Head over there and take a look at all the wonderfull tutorials from PR&P Sewing Friends!

  

 

Muito obrigada Liz and Elizabeth por me convidarem e muitos parabéns por este incrível concurso!

Thank you so much Liz and Elizabeth for inviting me and congratulations on this amazing contest!

 

 

PALMILHAS ESPECIAIS . CUSTUMIZED INSOLES

Esta semana comprei uns sapatos novos para a Teresa e para a Inês. Sou muito esquisita com sapatos e raramente consigo encontrar um par de que goste. Normalmente ou são feios ou caros ou as duas coisas juntas! Mas, desta vez, arranjei estes ténis de elástico baratíssimos e giros. Não resisti e trouxe logo dois pares para cada uma!
Elas adoraram os sapatos novos mas quando os experimentaram vimos que eram, principalmente para a Teresa, um pouco largos e por isso caiam dos pés ao andar. Ela já não os queria devolver (e eu também não!) e tivemos que arranjar uma solução “à antiga” para resolver a situação: palmilhas!
O Zé Guilherme foi ao sapateiro e comprou umas palmilhas. Cheiravam bem e tudo, mas eram muito feias! Lembrei-me de ter visto aqui umas palmilhas forradas e, em 5 minutos, os sapatos novos já tinham palmilhas giras e personalizadas.

This week I bought new sneakers for Teresa and Ines. I am very picky with shoes and can rarely find a pair that I like. Usually children’s shoes are either ugly or expensive or both things together! But these slip-on cap toe sneakers looked great and were so cheap... I could not resist and I brought home two pairs for each one!
The girls loved their new shoes but, when they tried them on, they were a bit too wide and were falling from their feet while walking. Teresa wanted so much to keep the new colorful sneakers (and so did I!) that we had to find an “old fashioned” solution for the situation: insoles!
Ze Guilherme went to the shoemaker and bought some insoles. They even had a nice smell, but they were very ugly! I remembered seeing here a beautiful pair of lined insoles and, in 5 minutes, the new shoes had customized insoles!

 

 

Forrar palmilhas é facílimo e pode fazer a diferença num par de sapatos. Basta:
Lining insoles is so easy and can make a simple pair of shoes look great. All you have to do is:

Tirar a palmilha do sapato ou comprar uma palmilha nova;
Remove the insole from the shoe or buy a new insole;
 

Cortar dois pedaços de tecido usado como molde a palmilha;
Cut two pieces of fabric (right and left foot) using the insole as pattern;

Colar o pedaço de tecido à palmilha com cola de spray;
Glue the piece of fabric to the insole with spray adhesive;

Voltar a colocar a palmilha no sapato;
Replace the insole in the shoe;

Calçar e brincar!
Put the “new” shoes on and play!

3D PLEATED SUMMER DRESS TUTORIAL





 

 

Here is the tutorial for the pleated A-line dresses I made last week!
The instructions are only for the pleats but you can find patterns and tutorials for A-line dresses all over the internet (just google it!) or you can draft your own pattern using a dress you like (that’s what I did).
These pleats can also be done in other projects such as handbags (here is one) or pillows. And, one day, I will turn them into pockets for a skirt...

Besides the pattern, you will need:
-Fabric (see quantity in the first part of the tutorial)
- Thread matching the fabric color and (optional) thread in a contrasting color,
- Sewing machine and iron,
- Scissors, pins and hand sewing needles,
- Tape measure, ruler and a water-soluble fabric marker,
- Scotch tape (for an unconventional technique...)

CuttingStart cutting the fabric having in mind that, in the place where the pleats will be executed, you'll need a piece of fabric 3 times wider than the final width of the dress in that same area.
This dress will have 9 pleats and each one will be 1cm wide, ie:
3 x 9 pleats x 1cm wide = 27cm
It means that a piece of fabric with 27cm is required, to obtain a final width of 9cm at the place where the pleats will be done.
You can adapt the original pattern to this version of the dress, simply subtracting the total width of the fabric necessary to form the pleats with the final width of the pleats (because that final width is actually already included in the pattern), ie:
27cm - 9cm = 18cm
In conclusion, you will need to add 18cm to the original pattern in order to make the 9 pleats without changing the width of the dress.

 

At this stage, it is not necessary to cut the fabric in the neck area according to the original pattern. It is better to leave some extra fabric, cutting it in a straight line, and "trimming it" only after finishing the pleats.

 

 

 

Pleating
For the pleating, you should start by tracing the vertical lines that define all the pleats. Trace them on the right side of the fabric with a water-soluble fabric marker (or use your daughter’s super-washable pens, as I do!)
As this dress pleats are 1cm wide, the tracing should be done like this: starting at one edge, trace 0.5cm, then 2cm and 1cm and then trace alternately spaces with 2cm and 1cm. When you reach the other edge you should have a final space 0.5cm wide.

 

It is also time to trace the pleats’ height. To do this you will need the dress pattern. Start marking the lowest point of the collar (don’t forget to deduct the seam allowance). Then mark the pleats’ horizontal upper edge, roughly 1cm or 1.5 cm below that neck line mark you did earlier. And finally, mark the pleats’horizontal lower edge. This dress will have 7 folds, 2cm height each, so the total height is 14cm.

 

Make the pleats folding the fabric (wrong sides together) with the 2cm marks aligned. Pin and sew with running stitch along the traced line of each pleat. Do not forget to finish off the seam at the bottom end. I usually like to handmade this (because I'm kind of picky ...) but it is perfectly fine to finish it with the sewing machine. In this dress, the upper end of the seam does not need to be finished off as it will be cut out later (when assembling the dress this will be where the main fabric and the lining fabric will be sewn together in order to form the neck line).
Repeat this step with all the pleats.

 

 
The pleats are made! Now it’s time to "flatten" them. Start by holding the fabric tight to the ironing board with some pins. Then iron each pleat trying to distribute the fabric evenly to both sides of the stitching (if you are using plastic headed pins, be careful not to iron them!). When finished, the pleats should touch each other, without ever overlapping themselves, and have a homogeneous look.

Finishing
For sewing the horizontal lines that define the pleats you should try an unconventional technique ... Instead of attaching the pleats with pins and marking the sewing line with a water-soluble fabric marker, try using scotch tape. The scotch tape is a "two in one" tool as it keeps the pleats in place and it also works as a guiding line.
You should definitely try this! Cut 7 strips of scotch tape and stick them to the fabric at the exact place where the pleats are supposed to be (use the marks you did earlier with the help of the pattern). Now sew carefully in between the strips of scotch tape, starting and ending just before and just after each pleat. Hand finish each one of the seam lines.

 

Remove the scotch tape and iron the pleats (this will be the last time you will be able to do it!).

 

The pleats’ "pitching" technique is all handmade. Start inserting the needle, back to front, in the center of the pleat, then insert it in one side edge and then on the other, and pull the thread in order to join those edges. Then just make a few more stitches to attach those edges tight together and finish it with a little knot at the wrong side of the fabric.

 

 

Repeat this for the remaining pleats. It is a bit time consuming technique, but it is also great to see the fabric getting three-dimensional ...

 

Sewing
You can now return to the original pattern by putting it on top of the pleated fabric, so you can trim the neck line to the right shape. Then just follow the instructions to finish the dress.

I hope you enjoyed the tutorial and, if you have any questions or suggestions, feel free to tell me!
Have a great time sewing! (Can’t wait to see you’re results!)